Samstag, 31. Januar 2015

The other side of paradise

So far I have only been describing the beautiful sides of Ecuador and Colombia. I think it is important to also mention at  least a little of the other sides. To understand it better, some history:
In Colombia there is a lot of poverty. During the 1960s, the Colombian government effected a policy of Accelerated Economic Development (AED), the agribusiness plan of Lauchlin Currie, a Canadian-born U.S.economist who owned ranching land in Colombia. The plan promoted industrial farming that would produce great yields of agricultural and animal products for world-wide exportation, while the Colombian government would provide subsidies to large-scale private farms. The AED policy came at the expense of the small-scale family farms that only yielded food supplies for local consumption. Based on a legalistic interpretation of what constituted "efficient use" of the land, thousands of peasants were forcefully evicted from their farms and migrated to the cities, where they became part of the industrial labor pool. In 1961, the dispossession of farmland had produced 40,000 landless families and by 1969 their numbers amounted to 400,000 throughout Colombia. By 1970, the latifundio type of industrial farm (more than 50 hectares in area) occupied more than 77 per cent of arable land in the country.The AED policy increased the concentration of land ownership among cattle ranchers and urban industrialists, whose businesses expanded their profits as a result of reductions in the cost of labor wages after the influx of thousands of displaced peasants into the cities. During this period, most rural workers lacked basic medical care and malnutrition was almost universal, which increased the rates of preventable disease and infant mortality.
The Colombian Comunist Party, the PCC, began establishing "peasant leagues" in rural areas and "popular fronts" in urban areas, calling for improved living and working conditions, education, and rights for the working class. These groups began networking together to present a defensive front against the state-supported violence of large landholder. Members organized strikes, protests, seizures of land, and organized communist-controlled "self-defense communities" in southern Colombia that were able to resist state military forces, while providing for the subsistence needs of the populace. Many of the PCC's attempts at organizing peasants were met with violent repression by the Colombian government and the landowning class. U.S. military intelligence estimated that in 1962, the size of the PCC had grown to 8,000 to 10,000 active members, and an additional 28,000 supporters.
In 1961, a guerrilla leader and long-time PCC organizer named Manuek Marulanda Velez declared an independent "Republic of Marquetalia". The Lleras government attempted unsuccessfully to attack the communities to drive out the guerrillas
The Colombian government began attacking many of the communist groups in the early 1960s, attempting to re-assimilate the territories under the control of the national government. FARC was formed in 1964 by Velez and other PCC members, after a military attack on the community of Marquetalia. 16,000 Colombian troops attacked the community, which only had 48 armed fighters. Marulanda and 47 others fought against government forces at Marquetalia, and then escaped into the mountains along with the other fighters. These 48 men formed the core of FARC, which later grew in size to hundreds of fighters.
FARC had historically been doing most of its fighting in rural areas, and was limited to small-scale confrontations with Colombian military forces. By 1982, increased income from the "coca boom" allowed them to expand into an irregular army, which would then stage large-scale attacks on Colombian troops.
In the early 1980s, President Betancur began discussing the possibility of peace talks with the guerrillas. Ultimately this resulted in the 1984 La Uribe Agreement, which called for acease fire, which ended up lasting from 1984 to 1987.
In 1985, members of the FARC-EP, along with a large number of other leftist and communist groups, formed a political party known as the Union Patriotica ("Patriotic Union", UP). The UP sought political reforms (known as Apertura Democratica) such as constitutional reform, more democratic local elections, political decentralization, and ending the domination of Colombian politics by the Liberal and Conservative parties. They also pursued socioeconomic reforms such land redistribution, greater health and education spending, th nationalization of foreign businesses, Colombian banks, and transportation, and greater public access to mass media. While many members of the UP were involved with the FARC-EP, the large majority of them were not and came from a wide variety of backgrounds such as labor unions and socialist parties such as the PCC. In the cities, the FARC-EP began integrating itself with the UP and forming Juntas Patrióticas (or "solidarity cells") – small groups of people associated with labor unions, student activist groups, and peasant leagues, who traveled into the barrios discussing social problems, building support for the UP, and determining the sociopolitical stance of the urban peasantry
The UP performed better in elections than any other leftist party in Colombia's history. In 1986, UP candidates won 350 local council seats, 23 deputy positions in departmental assemblies, 9 seats in the House, and 6 seats in the Senate. The 1986 Presidential candidate, Jaime Pardo Leal, won 4.6% of the national vote.
Since 1986, thousands of members of the UP and other leftist parties were murdered (estimates range from 4,000 to 6,000). In 1987, the President of the UP, Jaime Pardo, was murdered. In 1989 a single large landholder had over 400 UP members murdered. Over 70% of all Colombian presidential candidates in 1990—and 100% of those from center-left parties—were assassinated.
FARC has rceived most of its funding, estimated to average some $300 million per year—from taxation of the illegal drug trade and other activities, ransom kidnappings, bank robberies, and extortion of large landholders, multinational corporations, and agribusiness. These funds are partly used to fund military operations and partly to keep the peace between peasants and traffickers, forcing the later to pay a livable wage, keeping crime at bay and sustaining social services where the government is absent 
I met a Colombian man merried to an English woman, who has been living in England for many years. He told me his cousin had been kidnapped when guerrilla troops came into their claassroom in the university in Bogota and kidnapped 15 students . She was returned to her family after 2 years after they paid a huge amount of money. Another cousin of his was held hostage for 2 years. I can sympathize with their aims but certainly not with their methods. Though after what the Colombian government did to the small farmers and to thousands of UP members, their despair is understandable. But as in all guerilla or anti government movements that originate to fight againsst injustice of the elites there arer also many criminals who don't hesitate to murder, commit sexual abuse etc. 
I will not tell you all the details of the conflict which has been going on for so many years and the many attempts at a solution. Only the last developments. 
On 27 May 2013, it was announced that one of the most contentious issues had been resolved. Land reform and compensation was tackled with promises to compensate those who had lost land.This is the first time the government and FARC have reached an agreement on a substantive issue in four different negotiating attempts over 30 years. The peace process then moved on to the issue of "political participation", during which FARC insisted on its demand for an elected Constituent Assembly to rewrite Colombia's constitution. This demand has been forcefully rejected by Colombia's lead government negotiator, Humberto de la Calle. On 6 November 2013 the Colombian government and FARC announced that they had come to an agreement regarding the participation of political opposition and would begin discussing their next issue, the illicit drug trade. On May 16, 2014, the Colombian government and the FARC rebels agreed to work together against drug trafficking, added to the development of these peace talks.
Colombia has become much safer since, but there is still ongoing guerrilla activity, mainly in rural areas and there are still roads which are not recommended to travel.  I am just trying to find out which.
another sad aspect of this paradise is the position of women . For ex. in the indigenous culture Wayuu (probably in others too). As soon as a girl beginns to menstruate she is married. Only boys are sent to school.
Colombia has strong laws in favour of women's rights, Yet in practice, Colombian women still suffer from regular forms of violence, exploitation and social marginalization.
In Cuenca, in Ecuador,  I visited a house established by women to help women and I got there the following Information: 7 out of 10 women in Cuenca experience violence from men! From murder  to physical violence, rape and  psychological violence as humiliation, threatening etc. 
Inspite of all the improvement for women , South America is still a very machist society. 
This is just to name a few of the other sides of this (could be) paradise.






3 days in paradise

A little bungalow hotel with 7 bungalows at the beach under coconut palms, each with a balcony and hammock, mine overlooking the sea, no electricity, just candlelight and moonlight, fabulous food, kilometers of deserted beaches, groups of pelicans flying by every now and then, fishing, only 4 guests except myself, you only hear the sound of the waves, no windows, only mosquito nets, and the best food I ever had. if that is not Paradiese, what is it then? 
You can walk kilometers on deserted beaches, every now and then meeting someone doing the same




and in the background the beginning Sierra Nevada
a little lake by the sea













By the way, I did not have a swimming suite on so I did not try to go in. The next day I was told there are caymans in the lake! Lucky me!
a dog taking a foam bath 
birds chatting
hundreds of pelicans flying by

another lake near the sea, also home to caymans, didn't see any, thanks God, but one of the guests did.
and more pelicans, flying in beautiful formations. 
my lovely new home, I am so much in love with it, could stay there forever...It is made out of bambus and the roof out of dried palm leaves.
 
my open air bathroom 
and my lovely bedroom
What more can I want?
I spent there wonderful 3 days. It has a very special atmosphere. No noisy music, only the sound of the waves and the wind. Dinner by candlelight on tables outside. In my cabana there were some little holes in the palm, so I figured it must never rain there. Well, on my second day, just after I came back from a long beach walk with my camera it started raining, one of those tropical rains which my camera would not have liked. And it rained in my cabana too! So that night I slept in the neighboring cabana. It was so lovely to lie in the evening in the hammock and listen to the rain and to the sound of the waves. 
Our cook, Ines, she would probably get at least 2 Michelin if "Michelin" knew about her. Her "arroz de coco con pescado", coconut rice with fried fish and fried bananas was just divine, as everything else she did. After one day, I started going to the kitchen 2 hours before mealtime to watch her cooking and learn how she did it. 
This is ines grinding fresh coconuts with an ingenious machine
and here is Ines preparing the most delicious bacalhau in coconut sauce. 
here is our second cook, Stefania, presing out the milk of the ground coconut to make arroz de coco.
In this place you have the feeling of timelessness and even the clocks are different. They probably count the hours by the songs of the different birds. 






















Dienstag, 27. Januar 2015

Santa Marta

Cartagena is supposed to be the safest city in Colombia, 5000 policemen guarding the historical center. Unbelievable. Santa Marta, South Americas oldest surviving city and the second most imporrtaant colonial city on Colombias Caribean cost does not compare to Caartagena. There are a few nices plazzas , some cute streets, but that's about it.



In the background of this last picture you can see some mountains of the Sierra Nevada, the worlds highest coastal mountain range , which reaches up to 5775 m. These are also the countries highest mountains. 
The police in Santa Marta , much less than in Cartagena, patrol the city in their Colombian Police "cars". I wonder if they aree quicker than a thief running. 
As everywhere in Colombia, people trying to make a living selling something on the streets.
Well, I thought, with 30 degrees centigrades, the Caribbean sea just a few meters away, I might as well stay here and decided to open a hairdressing saloon. you can come and visit me and have your hair done whenever you want.
Near the cathedral, on a bench, there were 2 men sitting and talking with a box with extremely loud music near them. It is just amazing. 
Colombia is actually the noisiest country I have ever seen. Today I took a local bus and had to hold my fingers in my ears because some girls in the back were shouting like crazy. People here have such loud voices that I figure they must have some voice development lessons in school. When somebody steps into the bus trying to sell you something, which happens about every stop, they talk so loud you get nearly deaf. And the mess on the streets outside the historical center is just unbelievable.

and the traffic!
When they are not standing in a traffic jam, everybody drives like crazy. Busses and taxis go with 80 km/h in the city center where you are allowed 30 or 40. 
Santa Marta has a beach in the center between the yacht port and the port where large ships are standing, not too inviting.
One really beautiful place here is the Quinta de San Pedro where there is a museum and a small botanical garden with absolutely fantastic trees. One of them, a Ficus Benjamina, is one of the talles trees I have seen. I fell in love with it. Couldn't stop photographing it. To give you an idea:


and one of my favorites:


and that's little me near that tree. 
There are some more huge fantastic trees in that park:
with large woods supporting one of its huge branches
and cacti growing on some branches
Can you imagine the size?
There is a museum in the park with the house and the room where Simon Bolivar, the most "worshiped" man in 6 South American countries, died in 1830. He liberated Colombia, Bolivia, Venezuela, Peru , Panama abd Ecuador from the Spanish .


Freitag, 23. Januar 2015

more Cartagena

Dear everybody
As I inserted so many Fotos of Cartagena in my last post, i have to write another one about Cartagena. 

In the evening it becomes magical. The little parks and squares are beautifully lit , vendors spread their self made jewelry and other artesania, singers stand or sit in front of the restaurants singing beautiful Colombian songs for the guests with the hope of earning some money, 




This evening, as I was walking through the streets, I saw a few drummers going somewhere so I followed them, expecting something interesting. As they arrived on Bolivar square there were already dancers waiting for them and they made a beautiful show. These pictures were taken in the evening with my new camera, it is amazing, it looks like daylight, and it was already getting dark.


Some more of the magical atmosphere in the evening in Cartagena:



Cartagena is a city full of art. It has a beautiful modern art museum and also so much art outside on the streets, and people selling pictures of famous artists (not the original, as you can imagine) 

and a woman, who might have posed as model:
 


Some of my favorites in the museum if modern art:
I loved this sign on the door of the women toilet:
The whole city is so colorful. And so many exotic fruits I have never seen before.

 
and the lunch at my favorite restaurant, La Mulata, just unbelievable. 
When you leave the ciudad amurallada, just outside the walls, the world already looks different, but fascinating too.
You can get a pedicure on the street
or have somebody write a letter for you (notice the typewriter!) or fill out some documents for social security or whatever

people who get tired just take a nap

Back to ciudad amurallada: some gorgeous trees
one of my favorite streets


and the amazing fortress the Cartagenians buit to defend their city:
look how thick it is!
with real long tunnels inside

and some last impressions from Cartagena, before I leave tomorrow for Santa Marta:


and also interesting, in the new modern city the highest concentration of high rises is on a narrow stripe of land with the ocean on both sides.
Have a good night!